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Wheely Wild

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Dingle was lively.  I had 2 requests: eat some proper fish & chips given that I’d been by the sea for the past 6 days, and watch some live music.  I wasn’t disappointed on either front, destroying a huge platform of fish & chips, and seeing not 1 but 2 local bands.  The first attracted a boisterous crowd, despite the hour. It wasn’t even 8 and punters were in fine voice.  I awoke this morning to dark grey skies and a muggy heat. My clothes had basically been damp since the rain on Beara, so with a resigned sigh I put them on for another day. I must proper smell…  I made light work of packing up, and headed off towards the first (and only real) challenge of the day: Coner Pass. Billed as one of the highest and most scenic roads in Ireland, it was certainly high but I couldn’t vouch for the scenery as it was covered in low cloud.  The climb went well enough once I’d negotiated the first km. A classic Gough shortcut along a road which turned to grass r...

Doing Dingle

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 Today was a proper game of two halves. This morning being largely a struggle through the rain, endless hills, headwind and busy roads but this afternoon back to what I’ve become familiar with. Quiet, cracking scenery and acceptable hills.  But I’ll get to that.  I woke at 6am to the sound of rain. I then woke at 7:15 still to the sound of rain. I finally gave up around 8:30, still with rain but now with the added delight of the sound of a German chap in the tent next to me having a long, monotone, and very much one way conversation on his phone. With a huff, I shuffled out of my tent and took refuge in the campsite orangery. Well, an area covered by corrugated plastic with plants in it. And settled into coffee and pastries procured from last night’s SuperValu escapade. By the time I’d finished, the rain had eased and I packed up ready to head off. As I was leaving, a fellow camper asked where I was off to.  “Dingle” “Oh that should only take you a couple of hours” “...

Beauty, Brutality & Beaches

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 Thunderstorms were forecast. Any plans I had for an early start were promptly thwarted by me waking up at 9am. Having prepped the night before I made short work of packing up and getting on the road. For all of 300m where I came across a Spar shop made for people who need breakfast.  Coffee, pastries, apple juice all eaten on a wet picnic bench by the side of the N71. But food is food.  Having demolished that little lot I set about the day ahead. A shorter day at 115km with just the 10 climbs.  I was delighted to quickly rejoin the best cycle path in the world which took me through woodland and the Muckross House estate. The notable addition from yesterday was a boat load of pony & traps, transporting tourists from the town up to the House itself.  Having negotiated that, the path led me onto the climb from Killarney back up to Molls Gap. The climb itself was never too steep, was reasonably quiet and heavily featured EU tarmac. The views were sublime as I m...