Day 6 - prehistoric parcours

Thursday’s route extension allowed me the freedom to also extend yesterday’s route and I’m glad I did. Like the previous day, the campsite I originally had my eye on plus it’s associated village was beautiful, but small and offering a little to a hungry cyclist. 

The campsite I ended up at was fabulous; set within a forest on the shores of a lake it was idyllic. Meant more for static caravans than tents, I was the only occupant under canvas and so was offered the facilities of a nearby chalet. Hot running water, electricity and somewhere to dry off damp clothes: I’d landed lucky.

Even better was the restaurant a 20 minute walk around the lake. It was fully booked but for the 3rd time in 2 days they took pity on me (being a party of one has its benefits, particularly if they can see that you’re making an effort to speak the native tongue). 

C’est formidable! And the view wasn’t bad either.

Just a note on the eating front - the ability to eat a good full meal in the evening is essential if I’m to keep going. Cycling (indeed all forms of exercise) will reduce my blood sugar levels. Whilst eating sweets and snacks will help bring them back up, after a while it’s like throwing matchsticks on a fire - in other words it will have little or no effect other than make me feel terrible. Overnight, my liver will look to get back the sugar that it has “lent” my body during the day when my levels have gone low (due to the exercise). Eating complex carbohydrate which take a few hours to work their magic, ensures that there is sugar there for the taking, and avoids my sugar levels going too low in my sleep.

Fortunately I also love eating, so win win!! Plus I get to eat this:

As for the town I find myself in, it takes its name from the château (haute being “high”, fort being the chateau). The château itself has had in interesting history; it started life as a military fortress but unlike most chateau in this region it become more graceful in the 16th / 17th centuries. I like this bit the best: in the early 20th century When the building fell into disrepair it was bought and meticulously restored by Baron Henry de Bastard and his wife Simone. 3 years after the Baron died, a fire all but destroyed the building. Simone set about faithfully restoring the original building once again, including the beautiful gardens. Chapeau!

More urgently, upon checking with my friends at the BBC I noticed rain and thunderstorms forecast. I got the bill and hot footed back to my tent, just as the heavens opened. As I arrived at my tent, an English couple in a chalet nearby Offered safe refuge for my wet clothes. All I need to do is remember to collect them before I leave in the morning…

On waking up I was delighted that it was not raining. When I woke up for the second time an hour later however, it was. I made a coffee and took delivery of my morning pastry’s (delivery service!) then set about packing up whilst trying to keep myself and my kit dry. 

After an hour or so of picking and placing I was ready for the off. I made my way into Hautefort and found the route, then immediately set about a 10km climb. 

It was still raining although it had eased by that point and there were glimmers of blue sky in the distance. What then followed was 16km of glorious downhill, where I bumped into my Derbyshire friend at the side of the road. I stopped to exchange pleasantries and to witness todays classic:

Him: “where’s my glove”

Me: “it’s there on top of your bag”

Him: “no, the other one”

Me: “you’re wearing it…”

We exchanged pleasantries and I made good my leave. We both have the same destination tonight so I have a feeling I might see him again.

Shortly after a huge descent saw me record a speed of 59kph and a frowny face on the speed check display at the side of the road. I had a strong word with myself and stopped and a boulangerie / tabac for (another) pain au raisin and a coffee. Just as well I did since once I got going I soon encountered my first Cat 2 climb. It was a stunning and steady climb through a forest with glimpses of the valley below.

The route then dropped down to the beautiful village of Condat-sur-Vezere and followed the banks of the river for a few km. In fact I would follow the river until my stop for lunch at Tayac; a village founded by a group of monks in the 12th century. The story goes that one of their number was too ill to continue. With little food, the poorly monk drank the local water and ta dah!!! made a miraculous recovery. I ordered a litre & half of water and asked also for both bidons to be filled with the stuff. I was taking no chances.

The area was inhabited far earlier than the poorly monk and the Vezere valley is referred to as “the cradle of mankind”. So much do that it has UNESCO world heritage status thanks to the amount of evidence of prehistoric inhabitants. 

Anyway where was I? Oh yes, following the river (loosely) up and down a couple of Cat 2’s to an enjoyable lunch in Tayac.The sun was finally out and had some eat so I took the opportunity to dry my sodden tent.

The afternoon started with a colossal Cat 2 followed by a long descent which would take me all the way to the river Dordogne. First I had to navigate a series of prehistoric caves (one of which remained occupied until 1966 would you believe) as well as the town of Scarlatti-La-Caneda. The town has a very well kept medieval centre, but on Saturdays it also has alot of meandering tourists. I stopped for a water top up and headed off. 

Leaving Sarlat I took a beautiful cycle path which led me 10km downhill to the spectacular Dordogne. I followed the Dordogne (again, upstream. Why always upstream?) along some fantastic yet deserted roads for 30 km to my overnight stop at Souillac. 

Although my route was flat, the surrounding countryside was growing in height. Looks like I’m going climbing tomorrow. I landed at one of Souilac’s numerous campsites, ordered breakfast for the morning, had a beer, pitched my tent and started the process of drying everything out. 

According to the BBC there’s storms brewing…